Showing posts with label Darroze. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Darroze. Show all posts

Saturday, October 20, 2018

Darroze Unique Collection Reviews - 1977 Domaine De La Poste, 1980 Domaine De La Poste, and 1982 Domaine De Jouanchicot

Here is a trio of Armagnacs from the Darroze Unique Collection. My area doesn't get a lot of vintage Armagnacs but Darroze is one of the few that can be found. Unfortunately because it's next to impossible to try them before buying and the prices are so incredibly high I've never pulled the trigger. Lucky for me though a nice fellow in the Serious Brandy group arranged a large group buy of these last year and the price was hard to resist. I didn't know much about any of them so I just made some wild guesses based on vintage and price.
bottle

1982 Domaine De Jouanchicot

Bas-Armagnac; Bottled in 2015, Aged 33 years; 42.5% ABV; $119
Color-wise this is by far the darkest of the three. Nose is very caramel and raisin forward. On the palate the caramel sweetness falls off and it's mostly tannins and grapes. The tannins get stronger as it goes as the finish is rather bitter. It's rather weak on impact on all fronts, the low proof is certainly evident. Overall this is too thin and over-oaked for my tastes. Rating: C-

1980 Domaine De La Poste

Armagnac; Bottled in 2016, Aged 36 years; 48.3% ABV; $142
This is by far the lightest in color of the three. The nose is funky and not in a good way, it doesn't really smell like Armagnac. Its very molasses and sweet forward, almost like a rum. I don't like rum. The palate is just as bonkers - there are minimal lush raisin / dark fruit notes I look for in grape distilled sprits. There is a fair bit of a distilled malt type sweetness, like a Highland Scotch that was finished in Armagnac barrels. It's really thin on the wood depth too and the finish is pretty flat. This is really bizarre and blind I would have never guessed it's as old as it is or that it was even Armagnac. Rating: C-

1977 Domaine De La Poste

Armagnac; Bottled in 2017, Aged 40 years; 49% ABV; $144
We are back in a good place here on the nose. Rich dates, figs, and sweet caramel goodness. Palate is a knockout compared to the previous two. There is a lot of wood depth and a lot more of those caramel glazed date / prune notes from the nose. The finish has a lot of wood but also a lot of sweet and fruit to keep it from being an oak monster. This tastes like a proper, hyped aged, classic Armagnac. I've had richer, more intense experiences but this has every bit of the profile I chase after. It it was a little higher in proof I could see this being up there with the hyped Lous Pibous type stuff. Rating: B+
For shits and giggles I blended equal parts of the 82 and 80 as I did not want to finish the pours. It turned out surprising well as the oddball sweetness of the 80 balanced out the overly bitter 82 and gave it a nice proof bump. I'd give it a C+.
Note that price is not considered when assigning a rating.

Monday, October 30, 2017

A Bourbon Drinker's Take on a Few Armagnacs, Part 1. Delord 25, Chateau De Laubade XO, Darroze 20, Darroze 1986, and Chateau de Pellehaut 1989

I've been trying to branch out into other spirits for a while now, mostly because the demand for bourbon and rye is so crazy that special bottles are pretty hard to find and/or priced out of my comfort zone. Prompted by reviews by retired blogger Sku and others on the reddit whiskey network, Armagnac seemed like one of the last bastions where you could get good deals on exceptional bottles so I ran with it. The disclaimer here is though I've had a lot of bourbon, I know very little about Armagnac. What I noticed in trying to research Armagnac is there just aren't a lot of reviews out there apart from K&L which I take with a grain of salt since they are in the business of selling product. In light of that, I thought it would be worthwhile to share a seasoned bourbon drinker's take on exploring this spirit. Most of these are just free-form notes, some were from bottles, a lot were from samples. For the record, I'm also a bit of a proof whore so sub 90 proof spirits aren't something I drink very often. 

Delord 25 Year Old Bas-Armagnac 40%

The nose is grapey with some dark cocoa powder sweetness. It’s a little thin as you would expect for 40% but it’s got some menthol spice tingle. The taste is caramel sweet grapes and actually pretty rich for the proof. The finish lingers with woody grapes and some cocoa powder. There’s a good amount of wood influence here and there are hints of those old hyper aged Armagnac notes that I crave but overall I don’t think it tastes as old as other Armagnacs I’ve had this age or younger. 
This was the first Armagnac I ever tried at the recommendation of my local shop and this was the bottle that won me over that Armagnac was a spirit I need to explore. Today I consider it my baseline of good as it is easy to drink, has a lot of woody grape flavors, is well price for the age, and easily accessible even in markets that have terrible availability (like my own). Rating: C+

Château De Laubade XO Armagnac 40%

Grape forward, light, thin. Tastes like a younger, typical Armagnac. Not quite on par with Delord 25, probably a little more fruity grape forward and less sweet brown sugar or wood influence. Rating: C-

Darroze 1986 Domaine de Barigos Bas-Armagnac, 47.8%

Very nice balance of sweet and bitter. Tastes rather old and a bit funky. I’ve had better but this is in the right wheelhouse with those classic old Armagnac flavors which I assume are what everyone reviews to as rancio. To me that's old wood tannins, sugary dried raisins, and darker sweet vibes like cocoa. A good, classic, hyper-aged Armagnac. Rating: B

Darroze Les Grands Assemblages 20 year Bas-Armagnac 43%

The nose is very sweet with sugary raisin notes. Also getting a little spice, like what you might pick up in a low rye bourbon. The palate is a lot more of the same - it’s mostly honey and sugary raisin notes with a medium amount of wood influence and some of that aforementioned spice. It's more fruit forward than the other Darroze but in the right wheelhouse. The finish lingers for a bit with honey and a bit of dry woodiness. The proof bump there adds some depth and gives this an advantage over my baseline of Delord 25 - I think this is quite a bit better than that. Overall, it tastes exactly like what you would expect from a moderately long aged slightly up-proofed Armagnac. Rating: B-

Chateau de Pellehaut 1989 27 year Ténarèze Ugni Blanc Armagnac 49.9%

Disclaimer: I have no idea what Ténarèze Ugni Blanc means and I'm not going to spoil anything by looking it up first. The nose is very fruity with a peaches and pears vibe more than grapes or plums. The mouthfeel and taste are very bourbon like with lots of woody sweet flavors and some fruity peaches/pears. There are some classic brown sugar raisin notes in there but they take a backseat to more traditional whiskey notes. This drinks more like a bourbon than an Armagnac as it's more wood and wood sugars than grape and grape sugars. It's almost like I took some EHT single barrel and mixed it with an old Armagnac. Dangerously easy to drink for 50%. I've never had anything like this and like it a lot. Rating: B+

Thoughts: I'm well aware there's a trend where my ratings go up as the proof goes up but that should correct itself a little in upcoming reviews. Up next in part 2 I will branch out beyond Armagnac and try some Calvados brandies. Spoiler alert, I seem to be more partial to corn and grapes than apples.
Note that price is not considered when assigning a rating.