Monday, January 9, 2017

Bulleit Barrel Strength Review

I got my start with Bulleit years ago when cocktails were still my elixir of choice. I was never crazy about the bourbon on its own but I did enjoy it for mixing. Eventually I moved on to the rye which became a goto for drinks like manhattans and old fashioneds in my house. Even though I haven't bought a bottle of Bulleit in probably 3-4 years, I still often ask for the rye as the base when ordering a cocktail so you could say I have a bit of a soft spot for the brand. 
Like a lot of other producers out there, Bulleit doesn't make the products they sell. The rye has always been from MGP but their bourbon contract with Four Roses ended in December 2013 and now we don't have any idea who is making it for them. Given the timing, it's safe to say the no age statement bourbon on the shelves today should be consistent until at least the end of this year but it will be interesting to see if the profile of Bulleit bourbon begins to change in the future. Regardless, in 2016 Bulleit launched a no age statement, cask strength, Kentucky straight bourbon whiskey. I like spicy high rye bourbons and I like cask strength offerings so I felt compelled to give it a go. 
bottle
No Age Statement; 59.5% ABV; $59
Nose: A blast of ethanol and rye spice. The high proof and high rye really give the nostrils a tingle as it's pretty hot. Underneath all that heat and spice are some traditional woody sweet notes. 
Taste: Starts off spicy right out of the gate and that spice dominates all the way to finish. Combined with the high proof I'm tempted to say the spice is angry but that proof is also giving a boost to the traditional bourbon corn and wood sweetness too. The spice has a bit of dryness to it, kind of like dry cinnamon powder and that is what dominates the finish. That dry powder note is a little bitter and seems to be preventing any sweet notes from lasting. There's a bit of oak complexity here so I'd guess the average age of the blend is 6-7 years. The wood influence is hard to pin down because the spice is so heavy handed.
Thoughts: It tastes exactly like it should - a no age statement, rye spice forward, cask strength bourbon. I once heard a joke that Bulleit should be named "3 Roses" and I think that is a good analogy. It has some of the good characteristics of a high rye Four Roses private store pick but it's missing the elegant finesse you'll get in those. It's a decent dram if you like really spicy bourbons but for the price I think something like Maker's Mark Cask Strength is a better buy. 
Rating: C+ / B-
Note that price is not considered when assigning a rating.

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