Over the years, Parker’s Heritage Collection has been an array of really interesting whiskeys. A cognac finished bourbon, a wheated bourbon, a 27 year old bourbon, and a cask strength wheat whiskey are some of the highlights of what is usually a very solid annual release. While all of the whiskey nerds were desperately hoping for something like a higher aged/proofed Rittenhouse rye for the 2015 release, what we got instead was a Kentucky straight malt whiskey. As expected, the collective response in bourbon circles was pretty much WHAT THE FUCK?
While the majority of the bourbon neckbeards were hurling their angst as furiously as they could on social media in opposition to this grave injustice, I actually thought it sounded pretty good. I’ve enjoyed the few other American malt whiskeys I’ve had like Stranahan’s Diamond Peak and Balcones Single Malt. Given that this one was much older than those, highish proof, and had the solid reputation of Parker’s Heritage Collection behind it, I was willing to give Heaven Hill the benefit of the doubt and seek out a bottle.
Aged 8 years; 54% ABV; $90
Nose: Breaths hotter than it should for 108 proof. Once you get over the heat it’s mostly wood notes like caramel, vanilla, and some unpleasant wood varnish. I feel like the heat is masking indications it’s a malt whiskey.
Taste: Much like the nose in that the wood notes are very dominant with typical vanilla, caramel, and honey flavors. Also like the nose, it drinks a lot hotter than it should given the proof. The corn influence is very noticeable and gives it the semblance of fresh bourbon new make or “distiller’s beer” if you’ve ever tasted that at a distillery. The corny taste along with the malt gives it something I would liken to cornflakes cereal.
Thoughts: I can’t get over how hot this drinks for something that is only 108 proof. I find that usually some air time in the bottle with higher proof whiskeys tends to improve them but I feel that hasn’t helped here at all. I also can’t get over how young and raw this tastes to be aged stated at 8 years. Tasted blind, I would have guessed this was a ~5 old whiskey. It’s not the worst whiskey I’ve ever had but I wouldn’t call it good which by Parker’s Heritage Collection standards makes it rubbish.
Rating: C-
Value: As always, I don’t factor price into my ratings. While it is commendable that a portion of the proceeds here goes towards ALS research, I wouldn’t be comfortable recommending this release at any price.
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